A Trip To Margate

A letter to The Times, from “C.L.S.”, 16th August 1871:

Sir, – On Monday last I had the misfortune of taking a trip per steamer to Margate. The sea was rough, the ship crowded, and therefore most of the Cockney excursionists prostrate with sea-sickness. On landing on Margate pier I must confess I thought that, instead of landing in an English seaport, I had been transported by magic to a land inhabited by savages and lunatics. The scene that ensued when the unhappy passengers had to pass between the double line of a Margate mob on the pier must be seen to be believed possible in a civilized country. Shouts, yells, howls of delight greeted every pale-looking passenger, as he or she got on the pier, accompanied by a running comment of the lowest, foulest language imaginable. But the most insulted victims were a young lady, who, having had a fit of hysterics on board, had to be assisted up the steps, and a venerable-looking old gentleman with a long grey beard, who, by-the-by, was not sick at all, but being crippled and very old, feebly tottered up the slippery steps leaning on two sticks. “Here’s a guy!”  “Hallo! You old thief, you won’t get drowned, because you know that you are to be hung,” etc., and worse than that, were the greetings of that poor old man. All this while a very much silver-bestriped policeman stood calmly by, without interfering by word or deed; and myself, having several ladies to take care of, could do nothing except telling the ruffianly mob some hard words, with, of course, no other effect than to draw all the abuse on myself. This is not an exceptional exhibition of Margate ruffianism, but, as I have been told, is of daily occurrence, only varying in intensity with the roughness of the sea. Public exposure is the only likely thing to put a stop to such ruffianism ; and now it is no longer a wonder to me why so many people are ashamed of confessing that they have been to Margate.

Further Information Required

Alan Bristow, whose obituary appears in today’s Guardian, was clearly quite a character. Here was a man who once threw Douglas Bader into a swimming pool (pity it wasn’t a pond, I sighed) and called him a “tin-legged git”. I was particularly struck by one little detail, maddeningly not expanded upon, one of those asides that have you clamouring for more information.

Bristow survived into old age to die at 85, just a decade after licensing for production a patent “water bed” for cows…

What? What what what? It is sometimes said that Hooting Yard is “odd” or “wacky”, but the “real world” is infinitely more strange.

Dog, Serpent, Cushion, Fruit

Bear with me while I quote once again from Fors Clavigera by John Ruskin, but this is wonderful. One’s only regret is that there is no illustration of the work described.

[I]t happened that on the very day on which I published my last letter, I had to go to the Kensington Museum ; and there I saw the most perfectly and roundly ill-done thing which, as yet, in my whole life I ever saw produced by art. It had a tablet in front of it, bearing this inscription, –

“Statue in black and white marble, a Newfoundland Dog standing on a Serpent, which rests on a marble cushion, the pedestal ornamented with pietra dura fruits in relief. – English. Present century. No. I.”

It was so very right for me, the Kensington people having been good enough to number it “I.,” the thing being almost incredible in its one-ness ; and, indeed, such a punctual accent over the iota of Miscreation, – so absolutely and exquisitely miscreant, that I am not myself capable of conceiving a Number two, or three, or any rivalship or association with it whatsoever. The extremity of its unvirtue consisted, observe, mainly in the quantity of instruction which was abused in it. It showed that the persons who produced it had seen everything, and practised everything ; and misunderstood everything they saw, and misapplied everything they did. They had seen Roman work, and Florentine work, and Byzantine work, and Gothic work ; and misunderstanding of everything had passed through them as the mud does through earthworms, and here at last was their worm-cast of a Production,

From Letter V. Whitethorn Blossom

Fabiola

Mr Key would like to draw to your attention a small exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery. Fabiola is a collection of mostly “amateur” portraits of Saint Fabiola, collected over the years by the Flemish artist Francis Alÿs. They are all based on a single source, a now lost 19th century painting, which means they look almost identical – but they’re not, of course. The effect of seeing them all gathered together in a couple of rooms is quite mesmerising. The official gallery page is here, and there is a photograph of an earlier showing in New York here. 

fabiola390

The Invention Of Soup

As noted a few days ago, I have now begun reading Ruskin’s Fors Clavigera. Its eccentricity, adverted to by Guy Davenport, has already become apparent. Here is an extract from Letter II, The Great Picnic.

I. That the strength of Hercules is for deed, not misdeed ; and that his club – the favourite weapon, also, of the Athenian hero Theseus, whose form is the best inheritance left to us by the greatest of Greek sculptors, (it is in the Elgin room of the British Museum, and I shall have much to tell you of him – especially how he helped Hercules in his utmost need, and how he invented mixed vegetable soup) – was for subduing monsters and cruel persons, and was of olive-wood.

(My emphasis.)

It may be that my classical education is scanty, but I had no idea mixed vegetable soup was invented by Theseus. I am hoping, with undisguised excitement, that Ruskin keeps his promise and tells me more about this in a subsequent letter.

 

Tonsured Buffoon

There is a tonsured buffoon I know, whose head is always inclined at an unnerving angle. His neck, I think, must be a supple one. He tells me, often, shouting at me from a distance of only a few inches, that he has startling capacity in one of his lungs, and almost none in the other, and that from day to day, sometimes even from hour to hour, there is a sudden switch, the lung that was capacious becoming clogged, and vice versa. To his own satisfaction, he has ascribed this to a pneumatic curiosity within his being. He says, or rather shouts, that it causes him no discomfort, and he has on no occasion discussed it with a doctor of medicine. I have asked him if in addition he has a hydraulic peculiarity, but answer comes there none, for he is not the most skilful of conversationalists. Even when leaning against a mantelpiece at a cocktail party, a situation where one might expect him to make some effort, he remains silent, his head at that odd angle, until someone comes close up to him, a few inches away. That is when he begins shouting. He has the piercing eyesight of a seagull, so myopia is not the explanation for his conduct. He shouts about matters other than his lungs, and can even be amusing, for instance when mimicking the sound of blotting paper being dragged across a pinboard. If one accepts that he will never answer a question directly put to him, nor hold his head at a reassuring angle, he can prove a splendid companion.

And of course there is his tonsure, which he keeps smooth by shaving it morning and evening, and rubbing into it an ointment of his own recipe. He has also been known to dye it gold, or sometimes blue, as the fancy takes him. He claims neither the tonsure itself nor his dyeing of it has any ritual significance, that it is mere whim. Funny kind of whim, I say. Others say the same, and less politely. There is much muttering that the tonsure is symbolic of something, that the changes in the colour of the dye, at those times it is applied, relate to the moon and the tides, or to the gestation period of squirrels, or to cycles yet unknown to cosmologists. Whether the buffoon is aware of such talk or not is a moot point. It is not something he has ever shouted about, while leaning against a mantelpiece or otherwise.

We were all surprised when he was placed under arrest. Crime of any kidney was the last thing one would associate with him. He was held in one of the fortresses which border the main square, but which one, ah, now that was a mystery. Their different purposes are announced only by the flags hung outside them, each of which is, in its own way, a masterpiece of decorative obfuscation. The sentries are mute. There are no windows on the lower floors, and those higher up are of frosted glass. It goes without saying that they are bulletproof, and proof against any other projectile, including the fist of a man clad in chain mail, hanging from a winch attached to an illegal helicopter. That man was me, actually, in a mad escapade from which I somehow emerged with body and soul intact.

With the protracted absence of my friend, I sank into melancholy. I missed his close range shouting and that’s a fact. Then one day, years later, his head, still at that unnerving angle on his neck, appeared on our postage stamps. But the tonsure was gone! I could not fathom, nor could any of us, what these two startling developments meant. The mutterings, long unmuttered, started up again, with some desperation. When the morning carts clattered through the portcullises of the fortresses on Thursdays, we gathered in the square, wondering if we would see our old friend being carried upon one, dressed in finery perhaps, a sceptre held aloft, or bound and gagged and on his way to the gallows. But week followed week, and we saw only the usual mix of nobles and criminals, sometimes even sharing a cart. By the turn of the year we stopped going to the square altogether, and remained huddled in our chalets, playing games of lanternjaw or spite, smoking our pipes, and swatting at flies.

I never forgot the buffoon, though I fear some of my colleagues did. I kept a collection of the postage stamps upon which his head had appeared, long after it was supplanted by new issues, showing the moon and the stars and pregnant squirrels and up and coming cosmologists. Those I did not collect. Nor did I ever find out what had become of my shouty, difficult pal. Until, on my deathbed, yesterday, or possibly the day before, he appeared hovering in a haze above my head. His mouth moved as if he was shouting, but there was no sound. I never learned to read lips, so I do not know what this shade or phantom or whatever it was was trying to tell me. Just before it vanished, in a sort of vaporous bursting, I saw that the angle of the head was no longer weirdly askew, indeed it was perfectly straight, or upright, but that the tonsure had reappeared, and it was golden again, oh so golden, and I was blinded by it.

Pantry Thoughts

I bought a loaf of bread. I tore a chunk from it and shoved the chunk into my head. From my head it went down to my belly. But I wanted it to go to my brain. I imagine my brain is of the same consistency as a chunk of bread. I think of my head as a breadbin. Thereagain, maybe my brain is more like a lump of dough. You don’t keep dough in a breadbin. You keep it in a sack. You hang the sack on a hook in your pantry. Whenever you need some dough, you open the sack and take out a handful. Then you close up the sack. So maybe my head is more like a sack on a hook in a pantry. It’s lucky that my pantry is lit by a bright electric bulb, a bare bulb, of illegal wattage, without a shade. And I took the pantry door off its hinges. I left the hinges in place, nailed to the frame, without purpose. But visible, and buffed every day, with a rag. 

Before Lunchtime

Rain clouds will sweep in from the west before lunchtime. Thunder will brew. Across parks and woodland, stunned unconscious squirrels will lie scattered upon the ground. In taller buildings, electrical wiring systems will fizz and pop. Tarnished silver will glisten anew. The Pontiff will appear on his balcony. Watch the way he moves his arms.

Solveg rides tall in the saddle. He has had a shampoo and rinse and even applied subtle dyes to his hair. He has perfected the art of making an omelette without breaking any eggs. Solveg has lost his good old mama, and must have whisky. Oh, you know why. He, too, moves his arms in that distinctively Papist manner.

In a coppice, one of the squirrels regains consciousness. It skitters up a tree, a larch or a laburnum. What a coppice! From far off there is a rumble of thunder. Looking west, the squirrel from its high vantage point sees Solveg’s good old mama approaching across the fields. Her arms are hidden in the folds of an old red shawl.

Tungsten manufacture continues apace in the Buna. The plant is too noisy for the sudden sheets of pelting rain to be heard hitting the roof. Magnus is in his cubicle checking some paperwork. There is garlic on his breath and garlic too, a whole clove, encased in the ceramic pod slung around his neck on a lanyard. Behind him on the wall hangs a crucifix. The pinned Christ thereon is daubed with red to mimic gore. Magnus moves his arms restlessly.

At the foot of the mountains lies a squalid village. Solveg was born here. Today it has more goats than people. The people don’t need a park, but they have got one, a municipal park with lawns and flowerbeds and volleyball courts and a bandstand and a duckpond and a paddling pool for children. When it was laid out by prisoners of war it had beacon status. Now it is overrun by goats. The statue of Christ in the centre of one of the lawns shows Him with one arm raised in benediction. The other arm was snapped off long ago.

In a crevice in a rock at the bottom of the sea, a demersal being opens one cold alien eye. It summons the rain clouds from the west. It summons the thunder. It stuns the squirrels. It has no arms, nor flippers nor fins nor even tendrils. It is a weird blob.

Solveg on his horse, Magnus in the Buna, both have a keen interest in marine biology. Neither of them put it to use. Now, both of them move their arms towards the sea, towards where they think the sea must be. The coppice is far, far from the sea.

In the park, in the drained paddling pool, the goats run amok. You will find many, many goats in the Bible, but no squirrels, and no demersal blobs. One such blob clung like a barnacle to the submerged timber of the Ark. And then it came loose, and sank to the bottom of the sea. Arms are moved towards where the sea must be, from far inland.

At lunchtime, the rain clouds burst.Â